How to choose a quality pottery wheel and not buy a “pig in a poke.”
Choosing a used pottery wheel can be tricky, so it’s important to know what to check before buying. A careful inspection will save you from hidden problems and costly repairs.
Start with a visual inspection of the wheel. Pay special attention to the metal pan — check for any signs of rust or bubbles under the paint. The coating is usually powder paint, and if corrosion is visible, you’ll have a lot of work: sanding down to bare metal, priming, and repainting.
Without plugging in the wheel, spin the wheel head (the disc in the center of the pan) by hand. If it turns smoothly, continues to spin for a while, and there are no strange noises or grinding, that’s a very good sign. The spindle unit is the most important part of a pottery wheel, so focus on it carefully.
If the wheel had a careless owner, or it was heavily used in pottery courses, problems often appear here. The trouble is that if slip was not cleaned out of the pan in time, it could get into the bearings, mix with the grease, and block the rotation of the bearing balls.
In my models, to protect from copycats, the spindle unit was made partially non-removable. This means that to take it apart, you would need to drill out the flywheel — and that’s not easy. Plus, the flywheel itself will be 100% damaged. For that reason, if you see (or hear) problems with the spindle unit, it’s better not to buy the wheel.
Start with a visual inspection of the wheel. Pay special attention to the metal pan — check for any signs of rust or bubbles under the paint. The coating is usually powder paint, and if corrosion is visible, you’ll have a lot of work: sanding down to bare metal, priming, and repainting.
Without plugging in the wheel, spin the wheel head (the disc in the center of the pan) by hand. If it turns smoothly, continues to spin for a while, and there are no strange noises or grinding, that’s a very good sign. The spindle unit is the most important part of a pottery wheel, so focus on it carefully.
If the wheel had a careless owner, or it was heavily used in pottery courses, problems often appear here. The trouble is that if slip was not cleaned out of the pan in time, it could get into the bearings, mix with the grease, and block the rotation of the bearing balls.
In my models, to protect from copycats, the spindle unit was made partially non-removable. This means that to take it apart, you would need to drill out the flywheel — and that’s not easy. Plus, the flywheel itself will be 100% damaged. For that reason, if you see (or hear) problems with the spindle unit, it’s better not to buy the wheel.
Now it’s time to turn the wheel on. A smooth, steady humming from the motor is normal. Sharp, unusual noises mean you need to take a closer look at the motor.
Note — the wheel head should not spin when the power is on but the pedal is untouched. If it does, the free play of the pedal needs to be adjusted. I explain how to do this in detail in the manual.
Press the pedal. The wheel head should start turning. Pay special attention to axial and radial runout. To check this, sit so your eyes are level with the wheel head or slightly above. Press the pedal and watch the rim of the wheel head. If the edge doesn’t bounce up and down, that’s fine — the runout is less than one-tenth of a millimeter. If you have tool skills, you can measure runout with a dial indicator.
The most common reasons for a wheel breaking down are problems with the cable (it stretches, twists, and eventually breaks) and the rubber belt of the motor pulley.
Excess wear on this rubber belt is often caused by tight wheel head rotation. Spin the wheel head by hand — it should keep turning freely for several revolutions (without touching the pedal). If it doesn’t, the bearings are clogged with clay (see photo in the paragraph above).
This can only be fixed with a full overhaul in my workshop, and the repair cost will be about the same as buying a used wheel. If the wheel head spins normally, then simply replacing the rubber belt will be enough. With just a bit of attention, you can spot most of the weak points in a wheel before you commit. This way, your purchase will be a tool for creativity, not a source of endless repairs.
Note — the wheel head should not spin when the power is on but the pedal is untouched. If it does, the free play of the pedal needs to be adjusted. I explain how to do this in detail in the manual.
Press the pedal. The wheel head should start turning. Pay special attention to axial and radial runout. To check this, sit so your eyes are level with the wheel head or slightly above. Press the pedal and watch the rim of the wheel head. If the edge doesn’t bounce up and down, that’s fine — the runout is less than one-tenth of a millimeter. If you have tool skills, you can measure runout with a dial indicator.
The most common reasons for a wheel breaking down are problems with the cable (it stretches, twists, and eventually breaks) and the rubber belt of the motor pulley.
Excess wear on this rubber belt is often caused by tight wheel head rotation. Spin the wheel head by hand — it should keep turning freely for several revolutions (without touching the pedal). If it doesn’t, the bearings are clogged with clay (see photo in the paragraph above).
This can only be fixed with a full overhaul in my workshop, and the repair cost will be about the same as buying a used wheel. If the wheel head spins normally, then simply replacing the rubber belt will be enough. With just a bit of attention, you can spot most of the weak points in a wheel before you commit. This way, your purchase will be a tool for creativity, not a source of endless repairs.