Pottery for Beginners: How to Start
Pottery is not only about pots and vases.
It is about touch, slow rhythms, and the joy of making things with your own hands. If you always wanted to try but were afraid of the difficulties, here is a simple guide for your first experiments at home.
What you need to start You don’t need to buy a professional pottery wheel or build a kiln right away. Begin with the basics — simple tools and easy techniques.
Minimum set:
It is about touch, slow rhythms, and the joy of making things with your own hands. If you always wanted to try but were afraid of the difficulties, here is a simple guide for your first experiments at home.
What you need to start You don’t need to buy a professional pottery wheel or build a kiln right away. Begin with the basics — simple tools and easy techniques.
Minimum set:
- Clay (ready-to-use hand-building clay works well)
- Wooden board for working
- Metal wire for cutting clay
- Two sponges — one wet and one almost dry
- Plastic scraper with rounded edges
Where to get materials
Specialized shops are not the only option. You can order clay in art stores or even find it in building supply shops (but it will need cleaning). Some tools can be replaced with simple things at home: instead of wire, use fishing line; instead of professional scrapers, use an old plastic card.
First techniques: without a wheel
A pottery wheel looks impressive, but it’s better to start with hand-building. This way you will feel the clay and learn how flexible it is.
Coil technique
Roll the clay into a slab 5–8 mm thick. Cut the shapes you need (for a simple plate or tile) and connect the parts with slip — liquid clay that works like glue.
Specialized shops are not the only option. You can order clay in art stores or even find it in building supply shops (but it will need cleaning). Some tools can be replaced with simple things at home: instead of wire, use fishing line; instead of professional scrapers, use an old plastic card.
First techniques: without a wheel
A pottery wheel looks impressive, but it’s better to start with hand-building. This way you will feel the clay and learn how flexible it is.
Coil technique
- Roll clay into long ropes about 1–2 cm thick.
- Twist them into a spiral to make the base of your piece.
- Build the walls layer by layer, smoothing the joints.
- Let it dry to “leather-hard” stage (not sticky but still flexible).
- Smooth rough areas with a damp sponge.
Roll the clay into a slab 5–8 mm thick. Cut the shapes you need (for a simple plate or tile) and connect the parts with slip — liquid clay that works like glue.
Drying and firing: important notes
This is where mistakes usually happen. Clay cracks not because it is bad, but because it dries incorrectly.
Some things you don’t often find in textbooks, but they make the process easier:
This is where mistakes usually happen. Clay cracks not because it is bad, but because it dries incorrectly.
- Cover the piece with a slightly damp cloth for 1–2 days to dry evenly.
- Do not put it near a heater or draft — it will dry unevenly.
- If you don’t have a kiln, look for studios that offer firing services (it’s inexpensive).
- Try cold decoration: acrylic paints for ceramics don’t need firing.
Some things you don’t often find in textbooks, but they make the process easier:
- Clay sticks to your hands? Don’t wet them — it only makes it worse. Dust your fingers with a little dry clay instead.
- Cracks when drying? They often appear in thick areas. Try to keep the walls the same thickness.
- Trying to make a masterpiece right away? Don’t. The first 10–15 works are practice, not the final result.